Dry Embossing Lesson

Dry Embossing  Lesson 

Tools needed for this lesson:
Paper
Light box
Plastic or brass template
Metal and/or wooden embossing stylus

Lesson:

Dry Embossing on Paper - Dry embossing is easy with a few simple tools. Start by choosing a template and the type of paper or metal to emboss. Since you are creating a raised design using the thickness of the template as a guide, thicker templates such as brass or thick plastic work best. Thin templates will work, however it is harder to create a defined design with them. They also bend more easily, which can make embossing with them more difficult. Dry embossing produces the best results when using cardstock, vellum or scrap metal as the embossed material.

Depending on the design and paper you use, the type of embossing tool needed will vary. Small details require a metal or wooden embossing tool with a small tip. The small tip allows you to follow the detailed curves and sharp points of a design. A metal embossing stylus with small metal balls on either end works best for dry embossing on paper. When embossing on scrap metal, a wooden stylus with a flat and wide tip on one end as well as a small and pointed tip on the other end works very well. A metal stylus tends to rip through the metal much more quickly than the soft wooden stylus.

Once you have chosen your template, material and tool, it’s time to start embossing. If you have chosen to emboss on paper, put the template underneath your paper. It’s best to use a light box or a window underneath the template and paper in order to see the outline of the template through the paper. Light colored cardstock is easier to use because you can see where the template is located underneath the paper.

Be sure that the template is placed face down, so that when you look at the backside you see the reversed image of what you want to emboss. For example, when embossing with a lettering template, the letters should appear backwards while you are embossing them. You’ll be working from the backside of the paper. When you turn your paper over, the letter will be embossed facing the correct direction. There’s nothing more frustrating than embossing a letter backwards right onto your paper!

Once you have the template and paper lined up, apply pressure to the paper with one hand to keep it in place and trace the outline of the design with the embossing tool using your other hand. Press hard enough with the embossing tool to make an indentation in the paper, but be careful not to poke a hole through the paper. Learning the correct amount of pressure to use takes a bit of practice, and will depend on the thickness and type of the material you are embossing.

Once you have outlined the design, you can lightly “color in” the middle sections of the design. Use the larger end of the embossing tool to press the center of the design. Using soft pressure and going over the area multiple times will help avoid harsh indentation marks in the center of your design. This will raise the entire design, rather than just the outline.

When you are finished, flip your paper over, and you’ll see an embossed image on your paper. This can be left as is, or decorated with pens, chalks, glitter, or other embellishments.

Dry Embossing on Metal - Metal embossing is done with a slightly different process. Since metal is not translucent, and is much thicker than paper, you can emboss with the template on top of the metal, instead of underneath.

You’ll need a soft surface to work on. A soft foam pad, such as a mouse pad, works wonderfully to allow enough “give” to emboss the metal sheet. Place your scrap metal face down on the foam pad. Again, you will be working on the backside of the metal.

Next, place your template face-down on top of the scrap metal. Using the small end of the wooden stylus, outline the design of the template. Be sure to hold your template down firmly to keep it from slipping.

Once you have embossed the outline, use the wider end of the wooden stylus to press the center of the design. Use soft pressure and go over the area multiple times to avoid harsh indentation marks in the center of your design. Flip your scrap metal over to reveal your design. To create a more defined outline, use the small end of your wooden stylus or the small metal ball end of your metal stylus and carefully outline the raised image. This will give the raised image some added definition.

Mats and Frames Lesson

Mats and Frames Lesson 

Tools needed for this lesson: 

Paper
Paper trimmer
Embellishments

Mats and frames can be made using a wide variety of tools and products, depending on how you decide to decorate them. You can also purchase pre-made frames with various designs that look great by themselves, or when embellished and decorated.

Lesson:

Creating a Simple Mat - To create a simple mat for a square or rectangle photograph, it is easiest to use your paper trimmer. Stick your photo to the background paper with repositionable adhesive. Leave an equal border on two sides to use as a guide to create an even mat all the way around the photo. If you are not comfortable with “eyeing” the measurements, you can use a ruler to measure an equal distance around each side of the photograph. Draw small pencil marks where you would like to cut the other two sides of the mat. Line the pencil marks up with the blade on the paper trimmer and trim the mat.

Matting Odd Shapes - If you are creating a mat for an odd shaped photo, letter or journaling block, you can use matting discs which allow you to draw an even mat for your photo.

A matting disc is a thin metal disc with a hole in the center for your pencil point. To use it, put your pencil point in the hole and roll the disc around the outside edge of the element you are matting, using your photograph as the guide. Your pencil will create a border around the item that is an equal distance in all areas.

Once your border is drawn on the paper, cut along your pencil lines to create an even mat. When using a matting disc, turn your photo or letter and your paper over so that you are tracing the mat on the backside of the paper, eliminating pencil marks on the front side of your paper. Matting discs come in a variety of sizes allowing you to create mats of varying widths and work best when matting photographs or thicker cardstock. Thicker papers are sturdier and keep your matting disc in place.

Double Matting - Double or triple matting will place additional focus on your photographs, and is a great way to incorporate patterned paper into your matting without taking away from your photograph. Mat your photo with a thin border of a solid color. Then double mat with a second color of paper. For an even more finished look, triple mat with another thin solid border.

Creating a Simple Frame - Creating a frame is slightly different than creating a mat, but it starts the same way. Using your paper trimmer, cut a box larger than the size of your photo. Allow as much space as desired on each side of the photo to serve as the frame. When you are ready to cut out the center of your frame, look at your photograph to decide how big the hole will need to be. Measure the area of the photo that you want to frame with a ruler. Then make small pencil marks using the measurements on the backside of your frame where you want the hole to be. It’s best to make marks at each corner of your opening, so that you’ll know where to start and stop your cuts as you cut out the center of your frame.

To center the hole of the frame, first measure the height and width of the frame. Then measure the height and width of the hole you would like to make. Subtract the height of the hole from the height of the frame. Next subtract the width of the hole from the width of the frame. Divide each of those resulting numbers by two to find out how far to measure from the top and side of the frame to center the hole. Make small pencil marks on the backside of your frame using a ruler that cross at the corners to know exactly where to cut the hole.

Once you have the guidelines, use a paper trimmer to cut the center of the frame. Place the blade directly on one of the pencil marks at a corner. Then cut until you reach the next corner. Turn the paper and continue cutting from corner to corner until you’ve cut each side of the hole.

Decorating Mats and Frames - Creating a frame or mat is similar to creating a mini layout on a page. You can add borders, embellishments, titles, and journaling all within the frame or mat. Adding mixed media embellishments such as buttons, fibers, eyelets and brads helps to give the mats and frames texture and added interest. Combine other techniques such as stitching, tearing and chalking to create unique and beautiful mats and frames.

Lesson Colour Blocking

 Lesson Colour Blocking 

Tools needed for this lesson:
Paper
Paper trimmer
Adhesive

Lesson:
Overlapping Blocks - Simply cutting large blocks of paper, and slightly overlapping them, divides your page and helps to provide a base for your photos, title, journaling and embellishments. The sizes of the blocks can be specific sizes that you choose or can be random blocks of paper. The blocks can also be a variety of vertical and horizontal blocks, rectangles and/or squares.

Leaving a Thin Outline - Another version of colour blocking is to leave a thin outline around your blocks for the background colour to show through. A popular thickness between blocks is about ¼”. This also creates a matted look for your blocks, as well as provides an easy mat for your photos.

Making Strips - Strips of paper, used as the background of a layout, are another nice variation of the colour blocking technique. Vary the thickness of your strips, as well as the distance between them for added interest. Also try overlapping them for additional depth.

Fill in With Blocks - Filling in the background space around your photos with blocks of colour creates a mosaic look and a perfectly filled page. This technique works best with a variety of sizes of photos. It is also a great way to include several photos on a page.

To create this colour blocked mosaic for your layout, first crop your photos to the size you want them. Then adhere your photos to the page with reposition able adhesive. This will allow you to adjust them later if necessary, but will keep them in place while you measure for your filler blocks. Space the photos out so that there will be room for colour blocks in between and around them. Next, choose a few different colours of paper and decide if you would like to use small blocks of colour or larger blocks.

You can then start filling in the empty spaces between the photos with strips and squares of colour  leaving a thin border between each block where the background paper can show through. Rather than measuring each strip of paper, make a pencil mark or small indentation with your fingernail where you would like to cut and use your paper trimmer to cut straight lines. By using the pencil mark or indentation as your cutting mark, you'll have blocks that fit perfectly in the spaces on your page, without having to pull out a ruler. Alternate the colours and vary the sizes of blocks to create your colour block mosaic. Continue cutting strips or squares to fit until the whole page is covered.

Chalking Lesson

Chalking  Lesson 

Tools needed for this lesson:

Chalks
Cotton swabs
Cotton balls
Sponge applicators
White eraser

Chalks can be applied using a variety of different tools. Each tool has its own advantages and disadvantages. Using a combination of these tools, depending on the project, usually brings the best results. Cotton swabs, cotton balls, eye shadow applicators, and sponge applicators can all be used to apply chalk to your page. Cotton swabs and sponge applicators will work best for detailed chalk work or small areas, while cotton balls are very good for larger areas and for blending chalks together. Another tool that is important to have available when you are chalking is a white eraser (rather than a standard pencil eraser). White erasers tend to erase more completely, leave less residue, and are much gentler on your paper. They can often be purchased in scrapbook stores along with chalks or in art and office supply stores.

Lesson:

Shading - When shading an element of your page, such as a paper piecing, die cut, or a letter in a title, always start with lighter colors and then add the darker colors. You can always add more chalk or a darker color later if you want to.

Follow the natural curves of the item you are chalking. Use small strokes to follow outlines and the natural curves of items such as the sun, a ball, or the curve of a letter.

Choose one side of your element that will be shadowed and one side that will be highlighted. Then add appropriate colors of chalk to each side. For example, on a palm tree die cut, the light will come from above the tree. Add a light green to the top of the leaves and a dark green on the bottom to create a shadowed look.Shadowing elements gives a three dimensional effect. Try layering your colors to create different shades. Using various shades of the same color of chalk will create even more dimension.

Choosing Chalk Colors – Typically, when shading or highlighting an object, you will want to choose chalks that are similar to the color of paper you are working with. To shadow an object, choose a color slightly darker than the paper. To highlight, choose a color slightly lighter than the paper. Using shades of the same color produces subtle results that mimic the shadows and highlights you see in everyday objects. Black, gray and white are also handy to darken or lighten the original color of the paper, especially when you don’t have a darker version of the color you need in your chalk palette.

When you choose the colors of chalk to use, you will also want to think about the type of object you are chalking. For instance, when chalking a sun or the flame of a candle, use a combination of yellow, orange and red chalks to create the glow of the sun and the layered colors of a flame.

Chalks can also be used to add a completely new color to your layout. If you don’t have a piece of paper in the color that you need, or want a softer look for your background or page element, add chalk to white cardstock or vellum. This will create a soft, faded look in a new color, resulting in your own special paper. Using a cotton ball, you can cover a large area of your paper. Blend colors to create one of a kind backgrounds, journaling boxes, or photo mats.

Setting the Chalk - The best way to "set" the chalk on your page is to gently lay a sheet of clean scratch paper over the top of the chalked area, and press down on the paper with your hands, without moving the paper. The scratch paper will pick up any loose chalk from the project that would otherwise rub off onto your page protector or other parts of your page. Set your project aside for 15 to 30 minutes to allow the chalk time to set on the page before putting it into a page protector.

Achieving Balance

Achieving Balance

Now that you have chosen the elements of your page that you want to use, it's time to design your page. Each element of your page will have a certain "weight." Determining the best way to balance the weight of your pages can be tricky, and requires a bit of practice. There are a few easy tips that can help accomplish a nice balance.

Choose a photograph that you would like to be your focal point. Usually one photo is matted more prominently or featured in a special way to create a focal point. Other photos on the page will accent the main photograph and tell the rest of the story.

Generally, working with an odd number of photos and embellishments works best to create a visual triangle, and to prevent splitting a page. For instance, a layout may have a focal photograph on one side and two additional photographs on the other side of the layout.

Here are some additional helpful tips for creating balanced layouts:
Use similar techniques or elements on opposite corners of the layout.

Use two or three colors throughout the layout to keep continuity. Use colors in opposite sides to balance the weight of the colors.

Try lining your photos up for a sleek and clean look.

Continue borders or embellishment elements across both sides of a two-page spread.

These are not meant to be hard and fast rules, but they can help when you're in a bind!

Adding Embellishments

Adding Embellishments

Embellishments are the extras or decorations of the layout. They can consist of all kinds of combinations of products and techniques. They are used to fill in spaces and decorate around the photos and journaling information on your page.

Borders, stickers, buttons, wires, eyelets, brads, fibers and mesh are just a few of the many embellishments that help create beautiful pages full of texture and color. Many embellishments are included as decorations of photo mats and frames, titles, journaling boxes and backgrounds. Creating embellishments is where the creativity and art of scrapbooking come into play. The possibilities are endless and the scrapbooking products that are available are wonderful tools to create amazing embellishments to highlight your photos.

Creating Titles and Journaling

Creating Titles and Journaling

Titles
The title of a layout is an important way to draw people in by quickly telling the subject of the page. While every page does not need a title, it's helpful to provide quick information about the pictures and to gain immediate interest in the rest of the information on the layout.

A title can be as simple as a person's name, a humorous play on words, song titles, famous poems, or the name of a holiday, event or place. Titles can be short, long, complicated, funny, serious, elegant, or witty. Because it's typically the first thing people will read, a title can set the mood of a page at first glance.

Titles can be decorated in very intricate and detailed ways or can be very simple and elegant. They can be big or small, thick or thin, curly or straight. They can be hand written or made using computer fonts, templates, stickers, charm letters, beaded letters, threads, etc. The look and feel of a title can be as varied as the paper you choose.

Journaling
Journaling is the process of recording information that you want to remember. It is an important aspect of preserving your memories and past. Journaling is your opportunity to tell a story for generations to come. It is also a wonderful way to record your family's thoughts, hopes, dreams, likes, and dislikes. While it may be the hardest part of creating a layout, years later, it is usually the most interesting and valuable part.

When deciding how to approach the journaling for each page, consider what you want to remember about the event you are scrapbooking. While the who, what, where, why and when are certainly important to include in your scrapbooks, look a little deeper and write about the importance of the photos, the events, the people involved, the feelings that the photos evoke, and the things people said. Ask yourself questions to spark memories and stories that would make great journaling additions to your scrapbook. Did something exciting happen? How did it make you feel? Does the photo remind you of other things or people that perhaps aren't included in the photo? These are the sentiments that will be treasured forever.